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Category: Tech Talks
Paralleling Lithium Batteries
Many people want to run multiple lithium batteries in their system to increase their battery storage. This makes sense, sometime one battery just doesn’t provide the runtime you need. To run multiple batteries in a single system, without increasing the system voltage, you will be looking at paralleling batteries.
What is paralleling?
Image 1: Batteries in parallel When we talk about parallel batteries we are talking about what we see in image 1. Paralleling is a method of wiring batteries that increases capacity while keeping battery voltage constant.
What is in a lithium battery?
Another important thing to remember is that lithium batteries have BMSs (battery management system). The BMS protects the pack from fault conditions commonly, over-voltage, under-voltage, temperature, and sometime over-current. When a fault condition detected, the BMS switches of the battery.
Why is paralleling risky?
1. May void your warranty
Some lithium battery manufacturers specify that their batteries cannot be paralleled. If you decide to not follow their specifications, you will void your warranty. Some other manufacturers specify certain conditions on parallel use. These conditions may specify the maximum amount of batteries allowed in parallel, the maximum charge and discharge currents for parallel use, and more.
2. BMS damage, especially on high current
One of the reasons that paralleling is risky is because of the limitations of the BMSs inside the lithium batteries. An example will explain this concept best.
Example. Lets assume you have the following system:
– 2x 100Ah lithium batteries. 100A max discharge, 50A max charge.
– 12v 2000W inverter. We will assume that this is being used to its full capacity.
As can be seen in (image 2) when the inverter is running at full capacity, the batteries are both working together to supply 167A. Assuming the batteries both contribute half of this current, they will each supply approximately 83A (It is important to note that is unlikely that each battery will supply exactly half the required current). In the event that one of the batteries BMS trips (switches off), then suddenly one battery is left trying to supply the full load on its own. This means that one single 100A rated battery is trying to supply a load of 167A. This will very likely destroy the battery that is still on.
It is difficult to guarantee how much of the load or charge current each battery will contribute to. If the total load exceeds the ratings of a single battery, you are risking damaging your batteries.
Image 2: Batteries in parallel supplying 167A to inverter If you were to parallel, how might you do it well?
Image 3: Pylontech RT12100G31 battery 1. Use batteries designed to be used in parallel
Using batteries such as the Pylontech RT12100G31 is an excellent choice if you want to parallel batteries correctly. These batteries have built in communications that allow batteries to “talk” to each other. This communication prevents damage caused by parallel use and is a very reliable method of paralleling lithium batteries. This method of paralleling using communication allows the battery current ratings to “add up” when paralleled.
2. Check your manufacturer warranty
If you plan on paralleling your lithium batteries check to make sure you aren’t voiding your warranty. Look through the specifications carefully. Some manufacturers limit the charge/discharge current when the batteries are used in parallel.
Image 4: Illustrating balanced wiring and fusing 3. Balanced wiring
It is important to ensure that the load/charge is evenly shared between paralleled batteries. This means that the cable run to each battery should be equal. This can be done in a few ways as show in the image 4. The goal of the wiring is to ensure that voltage drop is shared evenly across batteries.
4. Low current (below single battery limit)
Running low current devices of parallel lithium batteries can be a safe option. Keeping the load/charge currents below the rating of a single battery minimises the risk that you will damage a battery due to over-current. Running a fridge, for example, off parallel lithium batteries can be a good way to increase runtime.
5. Charge batteries evenly first
Before connecting lithium batteries in parallel, charge them evenly. Putting each battery on a quality charger and allowing them to fully charge is good practice. Evenly charging the batteries reduces the risk of high current flowing between batteries due to different charge levels.
6. Fusing
Fusing each battery can be a good step to improve the safety of your battery setup. Fusing each battery ensures that no battery will exceed its maximum current rating. This can help to reduce some of the risks of parallel batteries. Note, however, that if a BMS trips and causes high current on a battery, the fuses of the batteries will blow. Fusing is not a recommended method of getting around current limits, simply a backup protection to improve battery safety.
Troubleshooting Lithium
Lithium battery technology has evolved and LiFePo4 batteries provide a safer option compared to other types of lithium battery. Lithium excels in mobile and space-restricted applications where temperature can be controlled and has become an increasingly popular choice. This edition we tackle troubleshooting different lithium battery options; both prebuilt and DIY.
Introduction to Lithium Batteries
Lithium batteries are made up of a set of cells, a BMS (battery management system), and a balancer. Lithium batteries always require protection circuitry (a BMS) to protect them. For prebuilt batteries, the BMS and balancer are built inside the battery. Lithium cells are sensitive to over-voltage, under-voltage, temperature, and high currents. It is the BMS’ job to protects the cells from these damaging conditions.
Drypower pre-built lithium battery alongside a variety of lithium cells What might cause lithium batteries to fail?
There are many reasons why a lithium battery may not be working as expected. Some of these common problems for lithium batteries are outlined in this guide.
Troubleshooting | Universal Issues
Applies to most lithium batteries whether DIY or Prebuilt
Charge settings incorrect:
It is important when charging lithium batteries to always use a lithium compatible charger with the correct charge profile selected. This will ensure that the battery charges to the correct voltages without tripping the BMS protection circuit.
Tripped BMS – battery too flat:
If your lithium battery has been discharged to fully flat, the BMS will switch the battery off to protect the battery. This protection is good because it saves your battery from damage.
Symptoms:
Low battery voltage (often around or below 10V for a 12V battery)
Battery not charging
- Battery not running any loads
Fix:
Switch off all battery loads. Connect a charger as soon as possible. You risk the battery never turning back on if you leave the battery fully flat for an extended period of time. If the charger does not charge the battery see the relevant section on resetting a tripped BMS.
Switch off all battery loads. Connect a charger as soon as possible. You risk the battery never turning back on if you leave the battery fully flat for an extended period of time. If the charger does not charge the battery see the relevant section on resetting a tripped BMS.
Tripped BMS – battery too full:
Symptoms:
Battery not accepting current when full
Battery switching off when almost full while charging
Chargers moving into absorption mode too early
Fix:
Check your charger settings are correct. If you have selected the wrong charge profile, this is a likely cause of a BMS tripping while charging.
It is possible that if the battery cells are out of balance, that you will see the BMS tripping while charging. Please refer to the relevant section to troubleshoot unbalanced cells.
Low capacity – battery not running for as long as it should:
Symptoms:
Battery not running loads for as long as expected
Battery capacity measuring significantly less than expected
Fix:
Check that the cells are balanced, see the relevant section for balancing instructions
Be sure that you are measuring capacity correctly. If you have a shunt, make sure its settings are correct. See the relevant section for instructions.
If your battery is old or heavily used, it may be a sign that the cells are losing capacity
Shunt settings incorrect:
Symptoms:
Battery percentage shown on the shunt is inaccurate
Fix:
Follow the instructions for your shunt to set the correct settings. If you have a Victron shunt purchased from Alt-Tech, please refer to the settings sheet you should have received.
Parallel batteries – damaged BMS:
Paralleling lithium batteries can be risky.
Many prebuilt lithium batteries cannot be placed in parallel without risking damage and voiding their warranty. Be sure to check if your battery manufacturer will warranty parallel batteries, and what conditions they impose on their parallel use.
When making DIY kits, paralleling BMSs is not advised. If parallel BMSs are required the system design should be approached with caution.
When two lithium batteries are paralleled you have two BMS’ working together. This can be ok until one of them trips (switches off). When one BMS switches off it leaves the other BMS to do all the work. If you are drawing 150A and one of your 100A rated BMSs switches off because the battery is flat, you will almost certainly damage the remaining BMS.
You CAN NOT rely on BMSs switching off at the same time.
Some batteries have communications built in, this is an elegant solution for paralleling lithium batteries correctly.Over temperature:
Over temperature (or under temperature although less common in Australia) damages lithium batteries. Over 60C is an absolute NO for lithium. This means no under bonnet use. Lithium batteries should be kept within their rated temperature limits.
Over Current:
If too much current is drawn from your lithium battery, exceeding the manufacturer specifications, you have likely permanently damaged your battery. Drawing too much current will damage the BMS. If the BMS happens to have over-current protection, removing the load may reset the BMS to allow it to continue working.
Troubleshooting | Prebuilt Batteries
When talking about prebuilt lithium batteries, we are referring to batteries that are premade by a manufacturer. They are commonly fully sealed with a BMS built in.
Drypower pre-built LiFePo4 battery Resetting a BMS:
If your BMS has tripped it will need to be reset:
- Remove the load or charger. The BMS may self reset after a few seconds
- Put a charger on the battery. It should reset the BMS and the battery should begin charging.
If these two methods don’t reset your BMS you can try the following options. These options can help reset even more troublesome BMSs:
Charge the battery with a Victron MPPT charger. Victron MPPT chargers begin to charge regardless of tripped BMSs. This can sometimes restart a stubborn tripped battery
You can momentarily connect the battery to a power supply of appropriate voltage (not recommended).
Balancing Cells:
If you suspect the cells within your battery are unbalanced, often evident through poor battery capacity, it is possible to help them balance. What you need to do is discharge the battery slowly using a fridge or small load (around 1-5A). Once the battery is discharged almost fully, slowly charge the battery (2-6A charge current). Repeating this process a few times can allow the battery balancer to work and bring the cells back into balance.
Troubleshooting | DIY Lithium Batteries
Common fixes for batteries built from lithium cells
Cell wiring inside an Off Grid Lithium Battery Box Incorrect Cell Wiring:
(very common)
Symptoms:
Balancer damage
BMS damage
Cell bulging/damage
Fix:
Ensure there are no loose connections
Make sure the sense wires are connected in the correct order and to the correct cell
Check that the sense wires are protected from strain and physical damage
Here you can see the sense wires are in the wrong order Here you can see correctly ordered sense wires Incorrect cell wiring is a critical error. You must ensure that when building a DIY lithium battery you wire every sense wire to the BMS and balancer in the correct order and tighten them very securely. Sense wires need to be protected from strain and damage.
If you have incorrect cell wiring there is a good chance you have damaged your BMS and balancer. You may need to purchase replacements to get your battery working again.
Unbalanced cells:
Fix:
Attempt to encourage the cells to balance by discharging the pack using a light load and slowly charging the pack. This can help the balancer do its job more effectively.
Check your balancer is working correctly. Ensure that it does not appear damaged and that all the appropriate indicator lights come on. If you have a clamp meter, check to see if current is flowing while the battery is charging and almost full.
If the balancer is working and the cells are still going out of balance, it is possible that you have a weak cell. This cell needs to be identified and replaced. To test a cell you can perform a full rundown test (recommended) or monitor the cells and see which cell is causing the BMS to trip on both high and low voltages. The normal range for a cell voltage is between 2.5 to 3.65V. Cell voltages around or outside these values will cause a BMS to trip.
Tripped BMS:
If you have a tripped BMS on your DIY lithium kit you should first attempt to reset it in the same way as a prebuilt battery.
If you still cannot get the BMS to turn back on you may attempt to manually reset the BMS. With our range of OGL BMSs you can very briefly place a piece of wire between the B- and P- terminals of the BMS to manually reset it. NEVER leave this wire connected for longer periods of time. Ensure that there are no heavy loads running or big chargers charging while you do this.
Left BMS demonstrates burnt resistors- Right BMS a damaged terminal Damaged BMS:
Symptoms:
BMS not turning on despite all the cells being within the correct voltage range and attempts have been made to reset the BMS.
BMS getting extremely hot despite current draw being within its rated limits
Fix
It is unlikely that a BMS has failed for no reason. First find the cause of the failure whether that be incorrect installation, overheating, over-current, etc. Then replace the BMS.
Balancer shows signs of burning and capacitors which have exploded Damaged Balancer:
Symptoms:
Cells going out of balance
Balancer looks burnt or capacitors have come off
Fix:
Commonly the balancer fails because it was connected while the sense wires were installed on the cells. Having sense wires partially connected to the balancer, either while installing or due to loose connections, WILL damage the balancer. Once the cause of the balancer failure has been determined, replace the balancer.
Moisture:
Water and electronics do NOT mix. Water or humidity can easily damage the BMS or balancer.
Water and Lithium ABSOLUTELY do not mix. Lithium batteries should never get wet and should be placed in a dry, cool environment.
Unveiling the Power of Lead-Carbon Technology Batteries: A Comprehensive Guide
Everyone knows about lead-acid batteries and most are aware of lithium, but if lead-carbon still has you scratching your head, this talk is for you. With growing efforts to move away from fossil fuels, creativity in the renewable energy & battery storage sphere has resulted in the melding of age old technology in innovative ways. The addition of carbon to familiar lead-acid battery technology has delivered a low-cost and sustainable new product to the consumer battery market.
If you really enjoy a deep dive into fine grain tech, you’ll love the ‘Construction of Lead-Carbon Batteries’ section, but if you prefer to keep it a bit more general, cruise on down to the ‘Benefits of Lead-Carbon Batteries’ section.
Understanding Lead-Carbon Batteries
Lead-carbon batteries have gained prominence due to their ability to provide sustainable and cost-effective energy storage solutions. To achieve their benefits, lead-carbon batteries employ a hybrid design that combines traditional lead-acid components with high-surface-area carbon materials.
Construction of Lead-Carbon Batteries
Fig.1. Lead-carbon battery configuration. Adapted from [1]
The construction of lead-carbon batteries involves modifying current LAB (Lead-Acid Battery) technology. The incorporation of activated carbon (AC) into the negative electrode enhances charge power and transforms the lead-acid battery into a lead-carbon battery. Lead-carbon electrodes, often referred to as LCBs, consist of a carbon-enhanced bifunctional lead-carbon composite negative electrode.
Key components inside a lead-carbon battery include sponge lead dendrites and AC particles connected in the negative active mass (NAM). This intricate structure enhances power and cycle life under partial state of charge (PSoC) operation. The addition of functional carbon materials addresses sulfation issues by increasing the conductivity of negative plates and providing additional active surfaces for lead sulfate (PbSO4) particles.
The inner structure of lead-carbon negative electrodes resembles a micro-ultrabattery negative plate, addressing challenges like parasitic hydrogen evolution reaction (HER), self-discharge, and electrode expansion during charge-discharge processes. Various carbon materials, such as carbon black, carbon nanotubes, graphene, and carbon nanofibers, are used as additives to enhance charge acceptance. The utilization of AC, known for its high specific capacitance, contributes to enhanced charge acceptance, even though it does not directly contribute to the capacitance of the lead-carbon electrode.
To counteract issues like parasitic HER induced by the exposure of carbon in the microstructure of lead-carbon to electrolytes, HER inhibitors (e.g., Zn, Ga, Bi, In, and Pb) are employed. A high affinity between lead and carbon components is essential for establishing a robust lead-carbon binary composite electrode. Despite the seemingly simple components, the lead-carbon composite electrode proves to be a sophisticated structure, requiring extensive research and design efforts for renewable energy storage and HEVs.
In the next section, we will delve into the mechanistic study and technological advancements of lead-carbon electrodes. Additionally, large-scale synthesis strategies of lead-carbon composite additives with potential applications in the NAM of commercial LCBs will be explored.
Fig.2. The main obstacles and considerations in lead-carbon batteries. Adapted from [1]
Benefits of Lead-Carbon Batteries
Extended Cycle Life: Lead-carbon batteries offer a significantly longer cycle life compared to traditional lead-acid batteries, incredibly close to nowadays lithium batteries really, making them a cost-effective solution in the long run.
High Charge and Discharge Rates: The incorporation of carbon materials enhances the power density of lead-carbon batteries, allowing for efficient charge and discharge operations, even under high load conditions.
Improved Performance at Low Temperatures: Lead-carbon batteries exhibit a broader operational temperature range compared to standard lead-acid and lithium LFP batteries. This versatility allows lead-carbon batteries to function in a variety of environmental conditions, making them suitable for applications with a wider temperature range.
Enhanced Efficiency and Energy Density: The hybrid design of lead-carbon batteries results in improved efficiency and energy density, contributing to their widespread adoption in renewable energy storage systems.
Electronics-Free Design: A significant advantage of lead-carbon batteries is their simplicity. Unlike modern lithium batteries that often include complex electronic components, lead-carbon batteries maintain a simple design. The lack of electronics decreases the number of things that can fail and increases reliability.
Cost-Effective Energy Storage: Lead-carbon batteries provide a great price per kilowatt-hour (kWh) of usable energy when accounting for both initial cost and expected longevity. This cost-effectiveness makes them a compelling choice for applications where optimizing the balance between performance and budget is crucial.
Environmentally Friendly: With a focus on sustainability and a recycling rate of 97%, lead-carbon batteries stand out as an environmentally friendly option, particularly when compared to the unresolved recycling challenges associated with lithium batteries.
Drawbacks of Lead-Carbon Batteries
Limited Energy Density Compared to Lithium-Ion: While lead-carbon batteries offer enhanced energy density compared to traditional lead-acid batteries, they still lag behind lithium-ion batteries in terms of energy storage capacity by size and weight.
Comparison with Lithium Iron-Phosphate Batteries
Now, let’s compare lead-carbon batteries, specifically the AGM type, with lithium iron-phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries, focusing on key parameters:
When to Choose Lead-Carbon
In the rapidly evolving landscape of energy storage solutions, lead-carbon batteries (LCBs) have emerged as a formidable option, especially in stationary applications where reliability and longevity are paramount. Their extended cycle life, high charge-discharge rates, and improved performance in ranging temperatures make them a cost-effective and sustainable choice for various energy storage needs.
On the other hand, lithium iron-phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries excel in portable applications where temperature control and space constraints are critical considerations. The high energy density and compact design of LiFePO4 batteries make them ideal for powering portable electronic devices and electric vehicles, providing efficient and reliable performance in situations where size and weight matter.
Ultimately, the choice between lead-carbon and lithium iron-phosphate batteries depends on specific application requirements. Lead-carbon batteries shine in stationary setups, offering robustness and reliability, especially in higher temperature environments. Meanwhile, lithium iron-phosphate batteries carve a niche in portable and space-restricted scenarios, delivering compact and temperature-controlled power solutions. As technology advances, these two technologies will likely continue to complement each other, catering to diverse energy storage needs across different sectors.
Lead-Carbon Batteries
If you’re considering lead-carbon batteries for your system, we have a range of carbonPLUS 2V and 12V batteries available. Each product has a specification sheet if you need to delve into finer details.
carbonPLUS Range
References
[1] Yin, J. Lin, H. Shi, J. et al. Lead‑Carbon Batteries toward Future Energy Storage: From Mechanism and Materials to Applications. Electrochem. Energy Rev. 5, 2 (2022). https://doi.org/10.1007/s41918-022-00134-w
Decoding Battery Technologies: AGM, Lead-Carbon, and LiFePO4 Batteries
In our rapidly evolving world, energy storage is a critical component of various industries, from powering electric vehicles to ensuring uninterrupted energy supply in remote locations. Among the diverse battery technologies available, three noteworthy contenders are Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries, Lead-Carbon batteries, and Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries.
This article delves into the unique characteristics, applications, and advantages of each technology, helping you make informed decisions about which battery type suits your specific needs.
AGM Batteries: A Dependable Classic
AGM batteries have long been a reliable choice for various applications, from uninterruptible power supplies (UPS) to marine and recreational vehicles. They utilize a glass mat separator, which is saturated with electrolyte to ensure minimal maintenance requirements and a spill-proof design. AGM batteries are known for their:
- Deep Cycling Abilities: AGM batteries can withstand deep discharge cycles without significant performance degradation, making them suitable for applications requiring frequent charging and discharging.
- Vibration Resistance: Their construction offers enhanced durability against vibrations, making them ideal for mobile applications like RVs and boats.
- Maintenance-Free Operation: Sealed design eliminates the need to add water or electrolyte, reducing maintenance efforts.
Lead-Carbon Batteries: Merging Tradition with Innovation
Lead-Carbon batteries combine the strengths of traditional lead-acid batteries with advanced carbon technology. This hybrid approach brings several advantages, making them a preferred choice for applications such as renewable energy storage and telecom backup systems. Key features of Lead-Carbon batteries include:
- Enhanced Cycle Life: Incorporating carbon technology extends battery life and improves cycle performance compared to standard lead-acid batteries.
- Fast Charging: Lead-Carbon batteries can accept higher charging currents, reducing the time required for recharging.
- Partial State of Charge Tolerance: Lead-Carbon batteries can operate efficiently even at partial states of charge, minimizing the risk of sulfation.
LiFePO4 Batteries: Pioneering Energy Density and Longevity
Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries have taken the energy storage market by storm, offering high energy density, exceptional cycle life, and lightweight construction. These batteries have become the go-to choice for electric vehicles, renewable energy systems, and portable electronics. Key advantages of LiFePO4 batteries include:
- High Energy Density: LiFePO4 batteries offer a high energy-to-weight ratio, allowing for more compact and lightweight designs.
- Extended Cycle Life: With thousands of charge-discharge cycles, LiFePO4 batteries outlast many other battery types, contributing to lower long-term costs.
- Safety: LiFePO4 chemistry is inherently stable, reducing the risk of thermal runaway and fire incidents associated with some other lithium-ion chemistries.
Choosing the Right Battery for Your Needs: Use Cases, Pros and Cons
AGM
Use Cases
- Recreational Vehicles: Their durability and resistance to vibrations make them suitable for powering RVs and boats.
- Backup Power: AGM batteries serve as backup power sources for critical systems like data centers and medical equipment.
Pros
- Maintenance-Free: Sealed design eliminates the need for regular maintenance and water additions.
- Deep Cycling: AGM batteries handle deep discharge cycles well, making them suitable for applications requiring frequent cycling.
- Vibration Resistance: Ideal for mobile applications due to their ability to withstand vibrations.
Cons
- Limited Energy Density: AGM batteries have lower energy density compared to some other technologies.
- Sensitive to Overcharging: Overcharging can lead to reduced battery life and potential damage.
Lead-Carbon
Use Cases
- Renewable Energy Storage: Lead-Carbon batteries are used to store energy generated by solar panels and wind turbines.
- Telecom Backup: Their fast charging and partial state of charge tolerance make them valuable for backup power in telecom systems.
Pros
- Enhanced Cycle Life: Combining lead-acid and carbon technology results in longer battery life and improved cycle performance.
- Fast Charging: Lead-Carbon batteries accept high charging currents, reducing downtime.
- Partial State of Charge Tolerance: Can operate efficiently even at partial charge levels.
Cons
- Moderate Energy Density: Lead-Carbon batteries have lower energy density compared to lithium-ion technologies.
- Weight: They tend to be heavier than some other battery types.
LiFePO4
Use Cases
- Electric Vehicles: LiFePO4 batteries power electric cars due to their high energy density and long cycle life.
- Renewable Energy Systems: They store energy from solar and wind sources for later use.
- Portable Electronics: LiFePO4 batteries are used in laptops, smartphones, and other portable devices.
Pros
- High Energy Density: LiFePO4 batteries offer excellent energy-to-weight ratio.
- Long Cycle Life: Thousands of charge-discharge cycles before significant capacity degradation.
- Safety: Stable chemistry reduces the risk of thermal runaway and fire incidents.
Cons
- Higher Cost: LiFePO4 batteries can be more expensive upfront compared to other battery types.
- Limited Voltage Range: Voltage per cell is lower than some other lithium-ion technologies, requiring more cells for certain applications.
Tailoring Your Choice to Your Needs
Selecting the appropriate battery technology involves understanding the unique benefits and limitations of AGM, Lead-Carbon, and LiFePO4 batteries. AGM batteries offer reliability and deep cycling for applications requiring constant charge-discharge cycles. Lead-Carbon batteries blend tradition with innovation, excelling in renewable energy storage and backup power scenarios. LiFePO4 batteries lead in energy density and longevity, making them ideal for electric vehicles and energy-intensive applications. By assessing your specific requirements against these technologies’ strengths and weaknesses, you can make an informed decision that aligns with your goals for efficiency, reliability, and sustainability.
Charge Controllers – What’s the difference?
We’ve talked about the difference between an MPPT controller and a PWM controller, and briefly about sizing your controllers.
MPPT’s use a transformer to step down the Voltage from your solar panel to the Voltage of your battery, usually with an efficiency of over 95%.
The calculation for this is simple. If you have a 200W panel and a 12V battery, divide 200 by 12 to get 16.66 Amps. Conversely, if you have a 24V battery and a 20A controller, multiply 20 x 24 and you get 480W, so that is the size of a solar panel that will give you the full 20 Amps (discounting inefficiency).
Aside from that, you need to make sure the solar panel Voltage is lower than the rated MPPT voltage (i.e. if you controller is only rated for 25V, don’t put a 45V panel on it!)
This is the reason we prefer certain brands of solar controller. House panels tend to be higher quality and higher Voltage, (and lower price), so we prefer an MPPT that will take a house panel.
So this is where it gets more complicated (but I promise – it’s a good thing).
Some MPPT controllers can be ‘overstacked’, meaning you can put some excess power on them. For example, if you have a 12V battery and a 10A controller, that’s 120W of power (or closer to 130 if you account for inefficiency).
Take the Enerdrive, which is a combined DC-DC and MPPT controller with a charge current of 40A at 12V. That should be a maximum of 480W of solar (40 x 12) but on the side of the box it says can take up to 1250W.
Victron MPPT’s are even more complex. Whilst each controller has a ‘nominal’ power on the side of the box (which is already 20% over the controllers rated charge current) if you go into the specs you will find a maximum input voltage and a maximum short circuit input current. Input voltage is based on the open circuit voltage of your panels (not the maximum power) and current is based on the short circuit current. Provided you stay under both of those values, you can often put more than double the power you would otherwise.
What’s the advantage of this?
Panels are cheap (especially secondhand panels. Many of our used panels come out around 30 cents per watt).
Controllers are expensive.
Due to the low cost of panels and relatively high cost of batteries, it’s often desirable to oversize your solar array for those cloudy, rainy days when your solar output is only at 10% – 20% capacity.
By oversizing your array relative to your controller, you are guaranteed the rated output of that controller earlier in the day, and a higher output on cloudy days. Of course there are scenarios where you want the max. output from the panels, such as mobile setups where space is tight, or applications where you use far more power on Sunny days (air conditioning, irrigation etc), but knowing you can overstack a controller can bring down the overall cost of a system without affecting your performance.
A final note on voltage.
That open circuit voltage on the back of the panel is based on the panel being at 25 degrees celsius.
Under colder conditions on a clear day, that Voltage goes up higher than what the panel is rated for.
We had one week last year where three separate people brought in MPPT’s that had died due to overvoltage. All of them were being used with panels that were theoretically 10% under the rated input Voltage. So we recommend staying 20% under the rated Voltage on an MPPT, just to be safe.
Lithium Batteries: Wiring a BMS
A lithium phosphate battery cell is 3.2V nominal (between 2.65 – 3.65V). This is the limit of the cell’s chemistry, so if we want more than 3.2V, we need to put the cells in series. (Translation for people with a social life – connect the positive terminal of one cell to the negative terminal of the next)
2 cells gives you 3.2 + 3.2 = 6.4V, 4 cells gives you 12.8V, 8 cells gives you 25.6V etc.
So if you want a 12V battery (nominal), you put 4 cells in series and charge them up. Simple, right?
That’s how it works with many batteries, but lithium cells tend to become unbalanced. If you put 4 in series and charge the whole pack to 14.2V (3.55V / cell, at which point the battery is fully charged although the cells can technically go a little higher), the charge becomes unevenly distributed. After a few cycles, one cell will reach 3.8V or higher and die.
Enter the BMS, or ‘Battery Management System’. The purpose of a BMS is to balance the cells, and turn off the battery if one cell gets too high or low, so the whole battery doesn’t fail. All BMS systems have cell monitoring and protection, and most have cell balancing incorporated, although some require separate balancing. (note – some BMS’s on the market incorporate a charging system as well. We will be focusing solely on the protection / balancing aspect)
A BMS must monitor the voltage of each cell and be able to shuffle power around in order to keep them at the same level of charge. To do this, a lead is run to each cell. In a 12V system, you will have one wire going to the negative point of the bank, and a wire going to the positive of each cell. The BMS monitors each cell relative to that first negative, so it expects to see 3.2V from the first to the second lead, then 6.4V from the first to the third, etc. For that reason it is very important to get your leads in the correct order (if you don’t your BMS will go pop) – Hint: Use a multimeter to check the voltage at the pins of the plug before you plug in to the BMS.
A BMS must also provide protection. Most BMS boards have the protection incorporated – they will have a copper plate where the output cable can be soldered or bolted to the device itself. One side goes to the battery, the other to your load. If any one cell gets to high or too low, the BMS cuts out to protect the battery bank. Some BMS systems rely on a system of relays in stead, but we will cover the types of BMS more in depth later.
Whilst most BMS systems have cell balancing incorporated, it is generally passive or resistive balancing. It only works in the top 15 – 20% of the charging cycle, and they tend to get hot. With larger cells, or with a battery bank that is working hard, passive balancing may not keep up, causing the BMS to trip more often or the bank to operate at a lower capacity. Active balancing that uses capacitors and operates through the entire charging cycle produces less heat is advisable – by keeping the cells at an even voltage, it ensures each cell gets a full charge with every cycle which improves both the efficiency and the cycle life of the battery.
DC Ripple and Batteries
DC Voltage is usually thought of as constant – You have a 12V battery, it outputs a steady Voltage, only changing gradually as it is charged and discharged.
DC ripple occurs when the Voltage of a DC system oscillates, usually only on a scale of milivolts. It can happen for a number of reasons.
- Volt droop – As you discharge a battery, the Voltage drops. Volt droop refers to the phenomenon by which the voltage drops disproportionately low under a heavier load. Say if you discharge a 12V battery from 13V down to 12V. If the load was heavy for the battery’s size and you turn it off once the battery reaches 12V, you will see the voltage come back up – maybe to 12.1, maybe to 12.5 – depending on how heavy the load is. This is not DC ripple on it’s own, but DC ripple occurs due to Voltage droop when loads are uneven – and most loads are. A 240V battery inverter will pull more power at certain points in the wave, which causes the battery Voltage to oscillate at a rate of 50Hz – too quickly to show up on a multimeter, but can be observed on an oscilloscope.
- Charging methods – Most methods of charging a battery do not provide a truly constant voltage to the battery. On the extreme end you have switch mode power supplies and PWM solar controllers which let through high Voltage pulses. Even high quality charging equipment tends to allow small ripples and smart chargers use high Voltage pulses to sense battery Voltage (still go for a 3 – stage charger if you can – the benefits far outweigh the small disadvantage).
- Rapid charge – discharge cycles. So you’re charging your batteries from solar at the same time as you’re using them. Output power isn’t constant, neither is input power, and the load includes an inverter. You have DC ripple due to the inverter power, an uneven draw, and uneven input power all at once.
So why does this matter?
Firstly, at high enough voltages, DC ripple carries similar risks to AC current. This isn’t worth worrying about with a simple 12 or 24 Volt system, but at higher Voltages it is something that professionals need to be aware of. Battery life – DC ripple basically charges and discharges your battery very fast. Whilst only at the scale of mili – or – micro – volts, these mini – cycles do add up and long term shorten the usable life of your battery. How much will depend on the type of battery and the severity of the DC ripple. Batteries with a higher internal resistance experience a greater degree of DC ripple – So lead batteries typically fare worse than lithium batteries of the same size. On the flip side, the high voltage spikes put out by PWM controllers and other cheap chargers are especially damaging to lithium batteries.
What can be done to minimize DC ripple?
- Quality charging – Avoid PWM’s if possible and go for an MPPT, use quality 240V chargers as well if possible.
- Ensure your battery bank is properly sized. Lead batteries shouldn’t be discharged faster than 0.2C, or 20% of the batteries Amp – hour capacity, i.e. if you have a 100Ah battery, you shouldn’t pull more than 20Amps from it. Lithium and lead – Carbon batteries can be discharged faster, so go for these if running heavy loads.
- You knew I was going to talk about supercapacitors. These have a much lower internal resistance than either lead or lithium batteries, and have millions of charge – discharge cycles in stead of mere thousands. With a supercapacitor in parallel with a battery bank, all of those micro – cycles go through the supercapacitor first, buffering or eliminating the DC ripple effect. This is not necessarily a cost effective solution for a small AGM battery, but on larger banks it’s a no–brainer.
System configurations – How does all this stuff go together?
System configurations – How does all this stuff go together?
Let’s start with the most basic – a 12 or 24V system used to power DC loads such as a 12/24V fridge, lighting, compressors etc. As a case study (and because it’s around 90% of people who walk through the door) let’s say this is going on a vehicle.
You will need either:
- A solar panel, solar controller, and battery (or several) or
- A DC-DC charger and battery or
- Both.
For a small solar array, panel plugs into solar controller, battery plugs into solar controller. Make sure you put the cables in the correct port and make good connections, and away you go. The controller regulates the voltage going to your battery to avoid overcharging.
There are two main classes of solar controller -MPPT and PWM (There’s a whole other post about the difference between these) – but the takeaway is that an MPPT is more efficient, takes better care of your battery, and will take a much wider range of panels. An MPPT controller will work with 12V panels, but it will also work with a higher voltage panel, which will perform better when conditions are poor.
For a DC-DC system, you run your cable from the starter battery to the DC-DC charger, then from the DC-DC to the second battery. In a vehicle without a smart alternator, earthing the DC-DC to the body of the vehicle is an option, if you have a smart alternator you will need to get an isolated DC-DC and run both a positive and a negative (earth) cable. (A setup using a VSR in stead of a DC-DC charger is a possibility for deep cycle batteries if you don’t have a smart alternator, however you will likely never get a 100% state of charge with just a VSR)
In both cases, you want to fuse everything (including loads) that is connected to the battery. Anywhere the positive and negative cable can physically come into contact (and in a vehicle where the entire body of the vehicle is earthed – where the positive can come into contact with metal) there is a potential for a short circuit, which could cause a fire.
What if you want to run 240V appliances (anything you’d plug into the wall at home) – Get a 240V battery inverter (make sure your battery is capable of handling the load). Bear in mind that if it doesn’t have plugs, you will need an electrician to hard wire the AC side.
Surprisingly, this configuration holds true for much larger systems. A larger array of solar panels and a much larger MPPT controller going to a much larger battery bank, and from there, to a battery inverter. These systems are more complex to setup and require more planning, and as permanent installations, there is more red tape, but where grid power isn’t available yet or has yet to be connected, it can work out far cheaper than paying for a connection and running underground cables.
What about PV inverters? The ones used on grid – tie solar systems? Can those be used?
Yes and no.
PV inverters need to ‘see’ the grid in order to startup, meaning it’s impossile to get a pv inverter started without first having a battery inverter as well. On top of that, the two inverters need to be able to communicate. Once you have a battery inverter and a PV inverter that can talk to each other, you can run them in parallel.
Say you have a 5kVA multiplus and a 5kW Fronius inverter. The AC output of the Fronius connects to the AC output of the multiplus. This gives the Fronius it’s ‘grid’ frequency and lets it start up. On a good day, where the fronius is producing 5kW, you will have up to 10kW available during the day.
If you’re not using that, the excess power is still used to charge your batteries – by going ‘backwards’ through the Victron inverter.
This is generally slightly more expensive than going the MPPT route, but in situations where daytime power use is higher (very popular for irrigation, cool rooms and large aircons) that extra inverter power can make a big difference in system performance
What if my panels don’t match?
Mismatched panels can be put together in the same string, but there are some rules to follow to keep the system safe and efficient.
In a series string, you need your panels to be the same technology, similar output, and a similar open circuit Voltage. The limiting factor with series panels is the current – if you have a low current, high voltage panel in series with a high Voltage, low current panel, it will limit your output current and potentially overheat the low current panel.
For parallel strings, your panels must be the same technology, your parallel strings must be as close as possible to the same open circuit Voltage (5% out is considered the safe limit), the tilt angle must be within 5%. This is if they are ‘paralleled’ on the roof, without a breaker in between or power conditioning equipment such as micro – inverters.
If you have multiple parallel strings going through breakers, they still need to be the same technology and within 5% Voc, but they may be facing different directions / at different angles.
Are these 12V panels?
In industry, panels that are under 25V open circuit are commonly referred to as ‘12 Volt panels’, which leads people to think that if they have a 12V battery, they need a ‘12 V panel’ (which is actually 24V). Not the case.
There are two basic types of solar controllers – There’s a whole other tech talk on them but it boils down to:
PWM: Can halve the Voltage coming from the solar panel (so can bring 24V down to 12V). Not very efficient, not very good for your batteries in the long run as they tend to let through high frequency Voltage ‘spikes’.
MPPT: Can handle much higher Voltages (Most ‘12V’ MPPT’s take between 45 and 100V max. input). More efficient. Often comes with 3 – stage charging, takes excellent care of your batteries.
This means – With an MPPT, any panel you like can be a 12V panel. Generally speaking, getting a secondhand commercial grade house panel and an MPPT controller is going to cost about the same amount of money as a brand new 12V panel with a PWM (there are good 12V panels and there are also extremely bad ones), and will take better care of your batteries.
What’s the difference between monocrystalline and polycrystalline panels?
Record–breaking efficiency belongs to the monocrystalline panels, but generally speaking a 200W monocrystalline will be the same size as a 200W polycrystalline. Monocrystalline panels generally do better in the heat, polycrystalline panels genrally do a bit better in diffuse light conditions (i.e. partial shade)
What’s the best flexible panel
There are three main types of solar panel cell. Monocrystalline, polycrystalline, and amorphous.
Monocrystalline and polycrystalline are made from silicon wafers. Whilst a few brands like Sunpower have made more flexible cells, all mono-and-polycrystalline cells are brittle. A mono or a poly flexible panel is simply not going to last very long. You’ll get longer if they are framed or if they are mounted well, but you will be lucky to get 5 years from a good one and they often don’t last 2.
Amorphous flexible panels exist. Amorphous solar cells are very flexible and durable, and amorphous flexible panels are very expensive.
What’s the Safest Battery?
The most common batteries used today in small to household – sized setups fall into two categories – Lead acid and Lithium.
Lead
Lead batteries fall into several different categories;
Flooded
Flooded lead batteries are commonly used for cranking (the battery under your bonnet is almost certainly a flooded lead – acid). They contain a liquid Sulfuric Acid electrolyte. Every time the battery is charged or discharged, some of this electrolyte degrades to form hydrogen sulfide gas, which is flammable. Flooded lead batteries can produce enough hydrogen sulfide to build up and explode, so large installations require a specialised ventillation system. Flooded lead batteries can also be spilled; The electrolyte can produce dangerous / flammable fumes depending on what it comes into contact with.
AGM / Gel
AGM and Gel batteries are different but in terms of safety they fall into the same category – Non spillable, valve regulated lead acid.AGM’s immobilise the sulfuric acid electrolyte in a special absorbent glass mat, which reduces the hydrogen sulfide produced. Gel batteries, similarly, contain a sulfuric acid electrolyte that is mixed with a gelling agent. Both of these batteries are recommended to ‘not be charged in a gas tight container’ but are safe to have in an enclosed space such as a vehicle or a building. Lead – Carbon batteries generally are also either AGM or Gel batteries in terms of electrolyte, but because of their better charge / discharge efficiency and their slightly lower operating Voltage, Hydrogen Sulfide production is even lower.
Lithiuim
There are two broad categories of lithium batteries. Lithium – Ion is the general term used for lithium – Cobalt, lithium – manganese and a few other varieties. LFP, LiFePO4, lithium – Iron (not ion), or LiFePO is the term used for Lithium Ferrous Phosphate batteries.
Lithium ion batteries have advantages in weight and charge / discharge ratings but if mismanaged present a serious fire hazard as they contain a flammable electrolyte that bacomes explosive on contact with water.
LFP batteries are comparitively very safe. They handle the heat better and last longer, but are slightly heavier. Whilst the electrolyte is technically still flammable under extreme conditions, fires starting from LFP batteries are exceedingly rare and typically only occur when a high voltage bank gets short circuited, or when battery cells are mechanically damaged and then get wet. Prismatic LFP cells are some of the safest batteries available.
Fusing
Regardless of chemistry, batteries store a lot of energy and an electrical fault caused by a short circuit or an undersized conductor can start a fire simply because of the heat produced by the current. It is essential to ensure that all cables and links are correctly sized. Anything directly connected to a battery should be fused. Single – pole fuses and isolators, by convention, go on the positive terminal of your battery, and with good reason – In a vehicle, the starter battery is earthed to the chassis, i.e. the entire body of the car is negative. This means that if your positive cable comes into contact with the body of the vehicle at any point, it can create a short circuit (in layperson’s terms, this will cause electrical current to be drawn from the battery extremely fast, producing heat, which could case a fire). Fusing any cable going to the positive terminal of a battery, as close to that terminal as possible, is therefore an essential safety measure.
In higher Voltage / stationary systems, a ‘double – pole’ fuse or magnetic circuit breaker is used and generally double – sheath cable or conduit is used between the battery and the breaker. There are strict standards on the protection equipment that can be used and installation layout for larger systems.